The cultural heartbeat of Denmark: why bodegas matter

Since 2007, lighting a cigarette inside most public spaces has been illegal in Denmark, part of a broader European shift toward public health. And yet, in certain Danish bodegas, often called brown bars, you can still legally light up inside.

These bars represent a conflict between two Danish values: protecting public health and preserving informal social places. The question isn't simply why smoking still exists here, but what would disappear if it didn't.

A disappearing tradition

Danish bodegas once thrived across the country. In the mid-1970s, Denmark counted over 6,600 of these establishments. According to figures from the industry association Horesta, pub guest numbers dropped 18% between 2011 and 2013 alone. The chairman of the association explains this decline: losing one in five customers makes it hard to cover fixed costs, and people are trying new ways to be social, by choosing specialized bars and cafés instead.

Today, the website “Bodega Map” estimates 1,500 traditional bodegas in Denmark. Changing urban demographics, more young professionals and fewer traditional working-class regulars, along with stricter regulations have pushed many bodegas to close their doors permanently.

The legal exception

Denmark banned indoor smoking in 2007, but made an exception for bars smaller than 40 square meters that don't serve hot food. This legal loophole is where the brown bar survives. Many bodegas deliberately stay within these limits: no hot food, minimal renovations.

Thomas, bartender at Byens Kro in Copenhagen, points out the paradox: "There's no logic in that the smaller the place is, the more you're allowed to smoke. From a health perspective, it should be the opposite."

More than just a bar

Thomas describes the bodega as a place with "high ceilings" in spirit, not architecture. Less restricted, less performative, more human. Most importantly, you'll find the same people, again and again. "Often it's connected with a lot of regulars. People behave more like they're at home," Thomas says.

Dominik, a regular at one such bar, doesn't smoke at all. He comes for familiarity. "I like the bartender, the beer, it's cozy, not so much noise, and it's close to where I live."

For many Danes, brown bars represent something deeper than nostalgia. They embody core Danish values that are harder to find elsewhere in modern city life.

It's not necessarily about smoking, it's a way of social life.

Tobias

Janik, a Copenhagen local and member of a Facebook group called “Save the Brown Pubs”, explains: “More and more brown bars are closing because of smoking laws and regulations. But it's a Danish institution. It's not necessarily about smoking, it's a way of social life. It doesn't matter if you're a CEO or without a job. Everybody's equal in here. And that's one of the things this movement is trying to protect.”

That equality is what the “Save the Brown Pubs” movement aims to protect. The campaign isn't primarily about defending smoking, it's a reaction against homogenization. Copenhagen's nightlife increasingly splits between exclusive clubs and trendy cafés, leaving little room for unpretentious middle ground.

This democratic spirit appears repeatedly in conversations about brown bars. They are among the last truly mixed social spaces in Danish cities where anyone can walk in without reservations, dress codes, or curated identities.

This welcoming atmosphere reflects "hygge," Denmark's famously untranslatable idea of cozy contentment. Anthony, bartender at a non-smoking establishment, understands the appeal: "It creates a warming environment and keeps us in touch with the older generation." For smoking bodegas, allowing cigarettes reinforces that openness: the space isn't divided between those who can smoke and those who can't.

What happens if smoking disappears?

Most people interviewed agree on one thing: a partial ban creates the hardest situation. If one bar allows smoking and the next doesn't, smokers follow the cigarette. Competition becomes impossible for smoke-free bodegas when smoking alternatives exist nearby.

“If this place stopped allowing smoking while other bars still did, many customers would go elsewhere. But with a complete ban, there'd be no alternative," Thomas admits. "People would stay because they like the place."

Some bodegas are already adapting. Charlie's Bar chose not to allow indoor smoking, attracting different clientele. During summer, they accommodate smokers by removing half a window and placing a table across it, allowing people to socialize between inside and outside.

Denmark prides itself on balance: tradition and modernity, welfare and freedom. In the smoky corners of its bodegas, that balance is still being negotiated one cigarette, one beer, one familiar face at a time.

This story is for an urban audience interested in European culture in the United States or UK and could be published in The Guardian (https://www.theguardian.com/international).